The hike to Mt. LeConte has be described and written about by many.
Every account is a unique experience in nature and its splendor. I am sure that all
who have made this ever changing climb to LeConte will agree that no trip is
ever the same. Change in weather and season result in unexpected experiences and
conditions. Mt. LeConte is the
crown jewel of the Great Smoky Mountains and stands apart like a mighty sentinel
from the main mountain chain and contains the greatest concentration of
geological features in all of the Smokies. This concentration is expressed and demonstrated to its fullest on the
mighty South Face of LeConte. Its rugged slopes offer a remarkable rich and
varied concentration absolutely unmatched by but a very few regions of the earth.
Mt. LeConte was first charted in the 1850’s and in the interval
between this event and the beginnings of the Park in the 1920s there were few
visitors to the peak. The first trails to LeConte were not any of those used by hikers today. The first trail up the South Face was the Bear Pen Hollow
Trail. It was a trail unlike any trail today. It was a trail that follows the contour of the surface
without any grading or maintenance. Climbers
today on the official trails experience the accent in a predictable fashion with
unanticipated pleasure and wonder. But to truly experience and discover the
hidden treasures and wonders of LeConte one must ascend by a number of other forgotten paths.
Bear Pen Hollow is the oldest route to the summit of LeConte from its
south side and crosses the steep gradient between the lower courses of the Cole
and Bear Pen Hollow Creeks. At one time in the past, there was a pole cabin and
used extensively by hikers as staging point for staying the night before a
difficult climb to the summit. Jack Huff in 1934 chose LeConte as the site of
his wedding and stayed in this cabin with his wedding party before climbing to
the top. The trail was named for a log bear pen that was in the vicinity but is
now no more than a brushed-out trace through the wilderness. Its route followed a
creek to ascend a very steep headwall and then across a spine
of a ridge to the top of West Point, and then along the crest
to Cliff Top.
The Trip begins in Tampa at 6:00 pm on Friday and a quick drive to Tampa
International Airport for a 1 Hr. Flight to Atlanta and then a 20 Min. Flight to
McGhee Tyson Airport in Alcoa, Tenn. Transporting
hiking equipment in today’s high level of security proves to be quite a
challenge and considerable thought must be used in packing of gear in checked
baggage. All items are highly scanned and examined. Upon arrival a note was found by the TSA that required inspection of food
bars that were thought to be something else. After gaining certification a
rental car was acquired and a 45 Min trip to Townsend was completed. Time: 12:30
a.m. After a short stop for the
night the next stop was at the Alum Cave parking lot at 6:30 a.m. I came across Ron, the winter caretaker for the Lodge, who had just
come down to drive into town and provided a lift to the trailhead. Which was down the
road, past Trout Branch.
The
trail starts with a climb up a stream and its many ledges and small falls to an
open area that leads to the site of the former cabin. Next is a steep climb up the drainage to the hollow. This distance requires considerable effort when climbing with an overnight pack.
After
leaving the hollow - a
good view of the peaks to the right of the Chimney Tops can be seen. The
trail then leads to an old growth Alpine section of forest with a difficult
crawl through years of blow downs and under growth, which leads to the famed
headwall.
This
is one of the most technical parts of the climb and prior knowledge of the path
is most helpful. Upon reaching the top you must follow the spine of the ridge though whatever
is in you way to reach the top of West Point. This section of the trail is
the most Difficult due to all of the undergrowth along the way – in many
places this requires considerable crawling due to heavy top growth. Once on top
of West Point you can see views rarely experienced.
The last leg of the climb takes you across
the ridge top to Cliff Top. This is most interesting, as you must weave
your way thought the small trees along the way. This section ends at the old
horse gate area, total time 8 Hrs. From there it's just a short trip, known to all
hikers, to the Lodge.
After checking in, a climb to Cliff Tops for sunset and more sunset.
Back to the Lodge for the standard menu dinner, which is always good and then to the cabin
for the night. In the morning, after a good nights rest, a short trip to Myrtle
Point for sunrise and then back to Cliff
Tops and the Lodge for breakfast. Trip
down - Alum Cave. |