THE SOUTH FACE 

November 22, 2003

Hike to LeConte via Bear Pen Hollow by R. Flynn

      The hike to Mt. LeConte has be described and written about by many. Every account is a unique experience in nature and its splendor. I am sure that all who have made this ever changing climb to LeConte will agree that no trip is ever the same. Change in weather and season result in unexpected experiences and conditions.  Mt. LeConte is the crown jewel of the Great Smoky Mountains and stands apart like a mighty sentinel from the main mountain chain and contains the greatest concentration of geological features in all of the Smokies.  This concentration is expressed and demonstrated to its fullest on the mighty South Face of LeConte. Its rugged slopes offer a remarkable rich and varied concentration absolutely unmatched by but a very few regions of the earth.

     Mt. Le Conte was first charted in the 1850’s and in the interval between this event and the beginnings of the Park in the 1920s there were few visitors to the peak. The first trails to LeConte were not any of those used by hikers today. The first trail up the South Face was the Bear Pen Hollow Trail. It was a trail unlike any trail today. It was a trail that follows the contour of the surface without any grading or maintenance.  Climbers today on the official trails experience the accent in a predictable fashion with unanticipated pleasure and wonder. But to truly experience and discover the hidden treasures and wonders of  LeConte one must ascend by a number of other forgotten paths.  

     Bear Pen Hollow is the oldest route to the summit of LeConte from its south side and crosses the steep gradient between the lower courses of the Cole and Bear Pen Hollow Creeks. At one time in the past, there was a pole cabin and used extensively by hikers as staging point for staying the night before a difficult climb to the summit. Jack Huff in 1934 chose LeConte as the site of his wedding and stayed in this cabin with his wedding party before climbing to the top. The trail was named for a log bear pen that was in the vicinity but is now no more than a brushed-out trace through the wilderness. Its route followed a creek to ascend a very steep headwall and then across a spine of a ridge to the top of West Point, and then along the crest to Cliff Top.

     The Trip begins in Tampa at 6:00 pm on Friday and a quick drive to Tampa International Airport for a 1 Hr. Flight to Atlanta and then a 20 Min. Flight to McGhee Tyson Airport in Alcoa, Tenn.  Transporting hiking equipment in today’s high level of security proves to be quite a challenge and considerable thought must be used in packing of gear in checked baggage. All items are highly scanned and examined.  Upon arrival a note was found by the TSA that required inspection of food bars that were thought to be something else. After gaining certification a rental car was acquired and a 45 Min trip to Townsend was completed. Time: 12:30 a.m.  After a short stop for the night the next stop was at the Alum Cave parking lot at 6:30 a.m.  I came across Ron,  the winter caretaker for the Lodge, who had just come down to drive into town and provided a lift to the trailhead. Which was down the road, past Trout Branch.

The trail starts with a climb up a stream and its many ledges and small falls to an open area that leads to the site of the former cabin. Next is a steep climb up the drainage to the hollow. This distance requires considerable effort when climbing with an overnight pack.

After leaving the hollow-a good view of the peaks to the right of the Chimney Tops can be seen. The trail then leads to an old growth Alpine section of forest with a difficult crawl through years of blow downs and under growth, which leads to the famed headwall.

This is one of the most technical parts of the climb and prior knowledge of the path is most helpful. Upon reaching the top, you must follow the spine of the ridge though whatever is in you way to reach the top of West Point. This section of the trail is the most Difficult due to all of the undergrowth along the way – in many places this requires considerable crawling due to heavy top growth. Once on top of West Point you can see views rarely experienced. The last leg of the climb takes you across the ridge top to Cliff Top. This is most interesting, as you must weave your way thought the small trees along the way. This section ends at the old horse gate area, total time 8 Hrs. From there it's just a short trip, known to all hikers, to the Lodge.

     After checking in, a climb to Cliff Tops for Sunset and more Sunset. Back to the Lodge for the standard menu dinner, which is always good and then to the cabin for the night. In the morning, after a good nights rest, a short trip to Myrtle Point for sunrise and then back to Cliff Tops and the Lodge for breakfast.  Trip down -Alum Cave.