NEWFOUND GAP TO FONTANA DAM

9-18/19-05

JOE FLEMING

  (Pictures to be added later)

   I first planned this hike as a 1-day hike of about 40 mi. But the more I thought about it, 1 day was just too much. If I needed to bailout near the end, there was no quick way off the trail. So I settled on a 2-day hike. The first day would be an 8.5 mi. hike on the A.T. from Newfound Gap to Clingmans Dome. The second day would be 32 mi. from the Dome to Fontana Dam.

   The weather was looking great for Sept. 18 & 19. My wife and I left Kingsport TN. At 10 am Sunday. Stopping in Gatlinburg for lunch were at Newfound Gap by 1:45 pm. The parking lot was half full. The sky was bright blue and the temperature was in the 70’s. It was perfect.

   The first thing I noticed were the leaves had not started changing colors. I was traveling very light compared to my other hikes. I wore trail running shoes instead of my usual hiking boots and carried a bottled water, candy bar and camera.

   I was on my way at 2:10 pm. It was strange to stand in the parking lot with all of the cars and people, then cross the road and suddenly you’re in the wilderness. I wouldn’t meet any hikers along the way. East Tennessee has been very dry since August and the trail showed it. You could hear traffic at times and catch a view of the road, once or twice.

   I got my first view of the Dome a couple of miles from the end. From here it was a steep descent to Collins Gap and a climb up to Mt. Love (6446 ft), then a descent into a gap at the base followed by a steep climb to the top of Dome (6643 ft). I was at the observation tower at 4:30 pm. There were 5 or 6 people there. Not many for such a clear day.

   I start down to the parking lot, where my wife picks me up at 4:45 pm. that’s 8.5 mi down and 32 mi. to go.

   We head to Pigeon Forge for the night and are back at the Dome parking lot at 5:40 am. Monday. It’s in the mid 50’s with no clouds and a big full moon. I gear up and I’m on my way at 6:00 am.

   The first .5 mi. is up the paved path to the observation tower and the A.T. I hadn’t traveled 200 yds. I suddenly could feel the air get much cooler and start to see my breath in front of me. I have my headlamp on for safety, but the moon is bright enough to see by.  I pass the tower and am on the A.T.  Along the ridge I can see the lights of Pigeon Forge above Sugarland Mountain. With Maryville and Knoxville off in the distance. The trail is rough with large rocks and roots. I try to be extra careful through here. I’m at the Double Springs Shelter at 7:15. No one is here, I put away my headlamp and I’m on my way.

   I cross the Narrows in minutes. This is a very narrow spine on the ridge; the views are great. I’m at the Silers Bald Shelter at 8:00. Two hikers were staying there. They said they heard me coming and thought I was a bear. I heard them and thought they were. I’m on my way at 8:05.

   Next up is Miry Ridge Trail junction. It’s 8:55 and I’ve traveled 8 mi. I get my camera to take a picture and a red light comes on. I thought the batteries were gone. But I had forgot my compact flash card. I can shoot 100 pictures with it but only 12 without it. So there will only be 12 pictures today. I’m really down now. It is so clear.

   It’s across Cold Springs Knob and on to Sam’s Gap. Here I meet a hiker who had camped at Derrick Knob Shelter with a large group last night. He was heading north while the others were heading south. From Sam’s Gap it’s a short climb up to Derrick Knob Shelter. It’s 9:50 and I’ve gone 10.6 mi. No one is here. I shed my long sleeve shirt and take a break. I’m off at 10:00.

   The next 4.5 mi. to the top of Thunderhead is a real surprise. After a mile you reach Sugartree Gap. From here it’s 3.5 mi. of hard pulls up to Thunderhead. I top out at 11:40; I’ve covered 15.1 mi.

   Next is Rocky Top, .6 mi. past Thunderhead. This was my planned lunch stop. The views are great, especially today. It’s 11:50 and I’ve traveled 15.7 mi. The climb up Thunderhead had zapped me and I’m still a little short of half way. I get cell phone service and make a couple of calls. I’m starting to feel better; but I’ve got a couple of hot spots starting on my heels. Two hikers I had past just before Rocky Top arrived. They were part of the group that had stayed at Derrick Knob. They said their brother in law had knee problems. He was just ahead heading to Spence Field with some others. They were heading to Mollies Ridge shelter for the night; but didn’t think he could make it. I gave them some trail info to get them down to Cades Cove and the Ranger station. I’m on my way at 12:10.

   I pass Spence Field shelter turn off at 12:25. There were half a dozen tents pitched just off the A.T. They must have been doing maintenance on the shelter. I could here a chain saw running.

   The next 2.5 miles to Russell Field shelter was excellent hiking. The trail was along the ridge with open woods. There were 2 hikers resting at the shelter. It’s 1:35 with 12.6 mi. to go. They would be the last hikers I would see along the way.

   I had hiked the section from here to Doe Knob in the summer. The trail was under water then, from a heavy rain the night before. There’s no mud today. I’m at Mollies Ridge shelter at 2:35. I have a snack and prepare for the last 10 mi. I’m off at 2:45.

   Just past the shelter I pass a big buck deer, just off the trail. I didn’t see him until he took a little hop. He scared me a lot more than I scared him. Because I took a bigger hop than he did. He just watched as I past by.

   Next up is Doe Knob. This is where the A.T. drops off the ridge turning down the North Carolina side, for a 7.5 mi. drop to Fontana Lake. It’s 3:40 and I can tell my hot spots are full blown blisters.

   I’m at Birch Spring Gap shelter (campsite 113) at 4:25. It’s closed because of aggressive bear activity. Next up are Sassafras Gap and the junction with Lost Cove Trail. From here it’s a .3 mi. climb out of the gap to the Shuckstack fire tower access trail, with a .1 mi. climb to the tower. This .4 mi. climb is the only real climb on this section. It’s 5:00 when I reach the tower, with 4.2 mi. to go. I wanted to climb the tower but I’m too tired. I just settled for a picture. It wasn’t what I expected; all the other tower sites I’ve been to have more of a flat surrounding. This thing was standing on a rocky point. It was straight up the access trail then straight up the stairs to the top.

   I’m heading down at 5:05. The last section is broken up with long switchbacks. The forest is more open and still very dry. I keep looking for a glimpse of the lake. I know I’m close enough to see it. Then I see the band of exposed dirt around the shore because of the lowered water level. The forest and the lake had looked like one except for the band. T.V.A. starts dropping the lake level after summer to make room for the winter rain and snow runoff. Last year on our Hazel Creek trip. The boat shuttle driver told Ronnie and me that the lake would drop 140 ft. this year for dam maintenance. I’m at the paved access road at 6:15 with 1 mi. to go.

   As I cross the dam I look across the lake and there’s Clingmans Dome faint in the distance. That was exciting to see where I had started at 6 am, 32 mi. away. As I leave the dam and head to the visitors parking area, my wife is pulling into the lot, perfect timing, and its 6:35.