CADES COVE TO DEER KNOB AND BACK

BY: JOE FLEMING

7-16-05

All pictures were taken on the return

 

Up at 2:30 a.m. and on the road to Cades Cove by 3:30 a.m. The weather channel was calling for highs in the 80’s with a 50% chance of thunderstorms after 2 p.m. around Cades Cove.

I arrive at the cove parking area at 5:30 a.m. ready to by 5:45.  Temperature was in the upper 60’s with lots of fog. 

This hike was planned as an out and back trip of 30 miles to Shuckstack fire tower above Fontana Dam.  I was soon to find out the trail conditions would not let that happen.  The plan was Anthony Creek Trail to Russell Field Trail then the A.T. out to Shuckstack and back the same route. 

Walking with my headlamp on in the fog along with the moisture from my breath was almost like white out conditions. 

The Anthony Creek Trailhead is in the back of the Cades Cove Picnic Area.   The walk from the parking was about .1 mile then another .1 mile or so to the trailhead.  From here it was 1.7 miles to the Russell Field Trailhead.  The first part of Anthony Creek Trail is an access road to a horse camp about .2 miles up the trail.  Above the horse camp was four stream crossings by bridge or foot log.  Just before reaching the Russell Field Trail it was light enough to turn off the headlamp.  I reached the trail junction at 6:20, taking a short break to stow some gear.

At 6:30 I was heading up the Russell Field Trail.  It is 3.5 miles to the top while climbing just under 2000 ft. in elevation.  Passing Campsite #10 at .9 miles.  Bear warning signs had been posted.

The little brown Hiking Trails Of The Smokies book says past #10 the trail becomes more difficult.  The combination of heavy horse use and rain can quickly turn the trail into a quagmire of mud.  I later found out this area had received about .6 inches of rain over night.  The rest of the hike was in the MUD.   The trail climbed steeply for a mile then leveled out for a half mile. It was another half-mile climb to Russell Field and on the Russell Field Shelter.  It was 7:45 am.  There were two over nighters at the shelter.  They were heading north on the A.T.   I decided to keep moving on to Mollies Ridge Shelter 2.5 miles ahead on the A.T.  This section is highlighted by a long climb up to Mollies Ridge.  I met three hikers who had spent the night at Mollies Ridge Shelter and they were headed north.  I arrived at Mollies Ridge Shelter at 8:45.  There were two overnighters packing up. It had been rebuilt in the 1990’s. It sleeps 14.  This was a very nice shelter in a good location.  I had planned to rest here but decided to push on, thinking I would stop shortly to rest.  This was a bad decision.  It is about 3.3 miles from shelter to Doe Knob. 

From the shelter the trail descends to Ekaneelee gap, the lowest point on the Smoky Mountain Crest 3842 ft.  Climbing out of the Gap just below Doe Knob I’m slopping through the mud just looking at the tracks on the trail.  The hikers from yesterday, deer, birds, maybe a raccoon or small fox and bear.  Yikes was that a bear track? Sure enough fresh bear tracks.  They looked very fresh!!!.  I immediately looked up checking all around.  They continued on the trail for 20 or 30 feet-then they disappeared. I was now on RED ALERT!  Hehehe

I reached Doe Knob at 9:50.  I had to rest and decide what to do.  It was about 3.5 miles to Shuckstack that would be 7 miles and at least 2.5 or 3 hrs.  Not counting the time spent at the tower.  I was feeling the effects of 11.5 miles in bad mud without a break.  Also the weather was calling for thunderstorms after 2 pm.  I did not want to get caught on the high ridges in lightening.  After some food and rest I was feeling better.  I wanted to head on to Shuckstack, but I felt I shouldn’t push it.  At 10:10 I’m heading back.

On the return I took several breaks to take pictures.  I didn’t meet anyone until I reached the Cades Cove picnic area. The return was uneventful, reaching the parking area at 2:35 pm. (23 miles round trip).