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| A.T. from Newfound Gap to Davenport Gap at I-40 by Joe Fleming 8-8-04 |
This is a hike I have been planning for about six months. It was first planned for early spring-a case of walking pneumonia changed my plans. I checked the weather forecast for August 8th the weather looked perfect. A cold front was moving through with high pressure and no rain in sight for five days. Saturday morning my wife and I head to Pigeon Forge to spend the night for an early start. We are up and on the road at 4:00 a.m. As we drive up the mountain, the star-filled skies are clear and it is a cool forty-five degrees with a light wind. My heart is racing with anticipation. We arrive at Newfound Gap parking area at 4:50 a.m. I hopped out of the car and gather my fifteen pounds of gear. I was wondering as Donna and I said our good-byes "WHAT AM I DOING"? I have more than thirty-three miles to hike-Can I do this in fourteen hours? With a shiver I was on the trail at 5:05 a.m. The moonlight was bright enough to only use the low beam of my headlamp. After forty- five minutes of hiking, I stop to adjust my pack and saw two headlamps about a quarter of a mile behind me. For a few minutes I felt a little safer. It didn’t last long; they must have turned off on the Boulevard Trail to LeConte. At 6:20 a.m. it was light enough to turn off my headlamp. I arrived at Charlie’s Bunion at 6:30 a.m.. I could see the bright lights from the strip in Pigeon Forge. After Charlie’s Bunion, there is a two-mile section named The Sawteeth. The narrow trail becomes a series of ups and downs, with drop offs on both sides. I ask my self " how did early travelers make it through this narrow and thick area." I am going to hike in twelve hours what would have taken them days to travel. My first scare came just past the Sawteeth. I found a tube of Chap Stick lying in the middle of the trail. As I picked it up to pack out, I heard a rustling sound to my right just off the trail. My heart skipped several beats-I am thinking BEAR!! Six feet off the trail was a sleeping A.T. hiker thrashing around in his illegally parked sleeping bag. My second scare came minutes later. The trail was very narrow, as it opened and made a switch back to the right, I looked up to see Greenbrier Pinnacle in the distance. The next thing I know I am on my face with an arm and leg hanging over the side of the trail. No injuries, just a little dirty and a good lesson learned. I need to always stop before taking my eyes off the trail. At 9.3 miles into the hike I came to Bradley View, a rocky overlook into North Carolina. I arrive at Peck’s Corner at 8:50 a.m.. This is the junction between the A.T. and the Hughes Ridge Trail coming up from Cherokee. This section begins the real backcountry to Tricorner Knob. It does not get a lot of hikers. About a mile past Peck’s Corner was Eagle Rocks. It was the finest of the overlooks. Looking down into the valley of the Eagle Rocks Prong and beyond to Greenbrier Cove. There were outstanding views of Mt. Sequoyah, Mt. Chapman and Mt. Guyot along this section. I arrive at Tricorner Knob Shelter at 10:40 a.m.. This was about .7 miles short of half way. A very nice shelter off the trail with plenty of benches and privy. I changed my water bladder and had one bite of beef jerky and a few chocolate covered espresso beans. I took two pictures of myself at the shelter. Little did I know that ten seconds was the only time my bottom would be sitting for the next twelve hours? I was cautious the whole time I was there, not wanting a surprise visit from a bear. According to a newspaper article, Tricorner Knob is the most isolated place in the State of Tennessee. This is the first time I felt like I could hike this in twelve hours. I was back on the trail at 11:00 a.m.. Almost to Mt. Guyot I met two lady hikers. The first of many hikers between here and the end of the hike. As I rounded Mt. Guyot, I heard gasoline power engines running. Four trail workers were clearing the trail. I stopped and thanked each of them for their hard work. As I passed the level area between Mt. Guyot and Old Black, I could see their campsite to the left of the trail. At 19.6 miles, I shot a picture of 1962 plane crash on Inadu Knob. Just past Snake Den Ridge I met a guy with a badly twisted ankle. He was trying to make it to Cosby Knob Shelter. He still had two miles to go. I ask if I could help. He said his buddies were behind him. I told him I had just passed them taking a break. I thought what if this happened to me between Peck’s Corner and Tricorner Knob. The section from Cosby Knob Shelter to Low Gap was very rocky. This is where my left knee started aching. I had dreaded the two-mile climb out of Low Gap, but the trail was much smoother and I made it fine. Just before the Spur Trail to Mt. Cammerer at 25.9 miles----it was all down hill to the end of the park. The section below Mt. Cammerer was very rocky and my knees were throbbing. At the Chestnut Branc trail. 29.6 miles at 3:30 p.m. I felt the heat and the humidity for the first time. I passed the Davenport Gap Shelter at 3:55 p.m. and 30.6 miles. The trail was above the shelter. Looking down on it, it looked like a nice shelter. I reached Davenport Gap and the end of the park at 4:15 p.m. and 31.5 miles. My cell phone rings and guess who it is? Ronnie. He timed it perfect, guessing my departure time and speed. I still have 1.6 miles to go through the National Forest to reach I-40. The last mile is a steep downhill; I have to hold all of my weight back on my trekking poles for support of my aching knees. I reach I-40 and the Pigeon River at 4:55 p.m. and 33.1 miles. Donna had said she would be there at 5:00 p.m. waiting. I told her it would be closer to 7:00 p.m.. For the first time she listens to me, as I cross the bridge over the Pigeon River I get a call from her, she is still shopping. She picks me up forty-five minutes later. As I look back on the day, the scariest part was the thought of her shopping all day in Pigeon Forge with my credit cards. Hehehe Food: 136 oz. of water, 4 snickers marathon bars, 1 bite of beef jerky, a handful of chocolate-covered espresso beans. Time: 11 hrs. and 50 min. Distance: 33.1 miles. Climbing total: 4608 feet. Downhill travel: 7678 feet. |
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