1278 5/16/03 Alum Cave Bluff Trail alone. As on my previous hike, I thought that my careful weather watch of the Knoxville and Oak Ridge newspapers, along with the Weather Channel, would present me with a cloudy but rain free day to hike. When I arrived at the Best Western Motel in Cherokee, NC, the weather looked very threatening and the Weather Channel confirmed while it was raining in the Smokies, that it would clear off at about midnight. After checking in and unpacking, I drove out by Tillroe Smith’s camper to see if he and his "Sweet Thing" were still there.

When I pulled into his access road, I was confronted by a blockage caused by a flash flood pouring from the mountain above. I stopped my car at the obstruction and walked over the barrier and took some pictures. His camper looked to be OK but some of his neighbors campers were not as fortunate. I chatted with the manager’s grandson who told me that Tillroe had been there but left for home yesterday.

I returned to the Best Western motel for a good night’s sleep but I did stop to take pictures of mountain laurel, Japanese Honeysuckle and butter cups along the roadside. When I awoke this morning, it was cloudy but not raining. I had brought four sandwiches from Florida in my cooler. I ate two of the sandwiches for breakfast along with in-room coffee and took the other two to the lodge for lunch. By having these sandwiches, I was able to leave earlier for my hike.    

I arrived at the trailhead at 6:25 a.m. and found partly cloudy skies and 47 degrees. It had obviously rained overnight because the trail and trees were wet. I set an easy pace for myself and enjoyed the cool temperatures and dog hobble blooms and Giant Chick Weed. Above Arch Rock I found a cluster of toothwort blooming and to my surprise, I saw pink petals on the trail and lo and behold some of the Catawba Rhododendrons were blooming near Inspiration Point. I don’t believe that I have ever encountered these flowers blooming in mid May on this trail. I took several pictures of various clusters with the mountain laurel just budding. I also saw some New Jersey Tea blooming at Inspiration Point.

The Mountain Myrtle was certainly at its peak. I took lots of pictures of it and had a hard time selecting one to portray. Lichen was growing in great profusion on decaying vegetable matter along the side the trail. I stopped and enjoyed the view of the Eye of the Needle and searched the sky for the peregrine falcons that nest just below the one meter diameter hole in the arête of Little Duck Hawk.

I certainly was glad to get to my favorite rock under the Alum Cave Bluff. The views were nice from this rock. Up the bluff, down the bluff and outward from the bluff. The newly formed leaves on the trees presented a lush green format as contrasted with the dry dust under the bluff. After my short break, I continued and paused above the Little Duck Hawk Ridge to take a picture and to look and listen for the peregrine falcons. I did not hear or see the fast birds of prey. Before reaching Gracie’s Pulpit, I stopped and took a picture of Big Duck Hawk Ridge. I also saw lots of painted trillium but they were well past their peak.

I took a snack break at Gracie’s pulpit and also took a couple of pictures of Paul’s Face, (Named for the late Paul Dinwiddie) A tree was partially blocking the trail at the saddle but upon my return trip, the obstruction had been removed. I stopped at the three-mile point and observed that the strata of rocks left by the trail maintenance crew’s jack hammer reminded me of the pancake rocks in New Zealand.

The first person that I met was Jarred, a new hire for the park. He grew up in Wisconsin and spent two years at the University of Wisconsin in Madison, but moved on to Oklahoma State University in Stillwater, OK for his final two years. He had spent the night in the maintenance cabin at the top. After moving on up the trail, I scaled the new log steps and started meeting the overnight guests from the lodge. They were descendants and friends of the lodge founder, Jack Huff and his wife. They were a church group from Gatlinburg, TN. I met two young ladies and a young guy. Another young guy named  Horsey Haley hiked up and insisted that he pose with his better side facing my camera. The bluets were really putting on a show above Shirley’s Rock. I met a couple followed by twin guys with a girl. I also found many white erect trillium. I don’t think that I have ever seen trillium at 5600' before but there were lots of them. I also saw red elderberry and common elderberry along with Canada violets, Witch Hobble and more bluets.

Above the upper steps, I met two lady backpackers from Indianapolis and Ft. Wayne, IN. I later met one of them at Inspiration Point on my way down. I saw lots of Witch Hobble and met three youngsters from the Huff group above Lu’s Pulpit. Their mothers were at Trout Branch. I took a few pictures toward Clingmans Dome as the clouds were moving in. Near West Point View, I was overtaken and passed by Danny Nash and Michael Woods from Knoxville, TN. Danny is in insurance and Michael is in real-estate. A short time later, I was overtaken and passed by Jim McBrayer and Tom Henderson from Clinton, MS.

The clouds moved in and a few drops of rain started falling. I quickly retrieved my umbrella to protect my camera so that action stopped the rain. I put it away and took a picture of some more Witch Hobble, Betty Jane Barnett’s Stairway to Heaven and one view scene showing the lack of visibility.

The lodge was fogged in and 52 degrees. I took a picture of the outhouse and another showing several other buildings. I had consumed all of my water so I stopped at the faucet to refill the CamelBak to wash down the two sandwiches and an apple for lunch. I went inside the office and visited with Henry Neel, Tim Line, the guys from Clinton Mississippi, Knoxville, TN and talked  lodge crewmember Toshani Thompson into signing the register for me. Ray Ogle may become Toshani’s grandfather if she marries his grandson, Travis Ogle. Get serious Travis. Marry her!!

Tim Line told me that his son Nathan was a sophomore at the University of Tennessee in Chattanooga. He and some friends had started hiking the Appalachian Trail. He expects them to get to the Lodge on Tuesday, May 20th.

The clouds had lifted some as I started my descent. The Mountain Myrtle that was blooming at Margaret’s Place (Named for Margaret Stevenson) seemed to be pinker than the ones near Inspiration Point. I took another picture in the direction of Clingmans Dome near Grassy Slide. The visibility was better. I had decided to limit my picture taking on the way down to speed up my descent. I did take a picture of a group from Louisville, KY having lunch at the upper steps. We had met before. I took more pictures of the white erect trillium, bluets and a Krigia Montana in a field of grass and more bluets. Near the saddle, I took a picture of the only Vasey’s Trillium that I have ever seen on this trail but I have seen it dozens of times.

I took a snack break at Gracie’s Pulpit. While noshing, three of Mayor Victor Ashe’s staff hiked past. After I resumed my downward hike, I met mayor Victor Ashe, himself. We chatted a while before I continued my downwards trek. A short distance down the trail, I met three more members of the mayor’s staff. I paused long enough to get another picture of the Eye of the Needle under different lighting conditions. I also took more pictures of the Mountain Myrtle, Rhododendron and Dog Hobble near Inspiration Point. I met the backpacker from Indianapolis walking around the area in sandals but carrying her hiking boot.

I was overtaken and passed by a young couple from Seattle, WA before reaching Arch Rock. Below the arch, I met two couples from Louisiana. Near the half mile point I stepped off the trail and photographed a Jack In The Pulpit and a May Apple. I met Grace and Jacob Line near the trailhead. Their dad, Tim Line had told me that they would leave the trailhead at about 2:30. I reached the trailhead at 2:55 p.m. and took a picture of a field of foam flowers. I had seen them this morning but decided for better lighting conditions to take a picture.

I had a great hike and enjoyed meeting old and new friends. I hope to be back on June 6, 2003 for another hike. After the hike, I headed for my old home town of Oar Ridge, TN to watch my granddaughter Laura Haythorn row in competition for the University of North Carolina's rowing team. The traffic in Pigeon Forge and Sevierville wasn't bad for a Friday afternoon with the antique car show in town. The traffic in Knoxville and Oak Ridge was another story. It was bumper to bumper and very slow. I was able to secure one of the last available rooms in Oak Ridge, in a decent Super 8 Motel. After checking in and washing up, I went to the Hampton Inn to visit my daughter Peggy Haythorn and her husband Mark. Laura was staying with the team in the Garden Plaza across the street. Peggy and Mark were going to dinner with the UNC rowing team at TGIF's. I begged off because I had not showered or changed clothes after the hike. I went to visit the Cecil Coffey's and discovered that Revel was playing quarterback in the Oak Ridge Wildcat's inner squad football game that signified the end of spring practice. I got to see the last half and Revel made some fine passes and several breakaway runs for good yardage. I was proud of him and enjoyed the game.

The next morning I arose bright and early and went to Shoney's for breakfast. I then drive out to the marina in a downpour to meet Peggy and Mark. I visited with them until 8:00 a.m. and decided that there would not be any rowing for some time so I left and returned to visit the Coffey's. Revel (15) and his brother Raphael (13) were ready to go with me to watch the rowing. I visited for a while and headed for my older home town of Decatur, Alabama. It was an exciting trip because the radio stated that three tornado's were on the ground near Huntsville and Athens, AL, and I was heading in that direction. I arrived safely but here was damage overnight. When I visited my 85 year-old sister Hope, her 93 year-old neighbor Francis Jones pointed out a large tree limb that had blown down. I walked with Hope to see the nearby damage.

I had a hard time convincing my sister Mary to ride out to Eva with me in the rain and take a picture of an old school building that was going to be torn down and replaced with a new structure. I went to school there from the 2nd through the 10th grade. Mary was surprised at how small that it now seemed. We left there and drove toward Vinemont, Al and stopped in and visited with ninety-two-year-old Altus Kenny, A distant relative but a life long friend. I took a picture of Mary and Altus.  Our next stop was the Flint Creek Baptist Church cemetery near Vinemont. Most of my mothers ancestors and relatives are buried there. Mary did not bring her flowers because we intended to return Sunday with several of our relatives. I did take a picture of my sister Mary standing by my father and mother's headstone.

It was raining too hard for my sisters, nieces and nephews to ride out Sunday so I dropped by the cemetery alone on my way back to Jensen Beach, FL.

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