LeConte Lodge via Alum Cave Trail With Ed Wright’s Group August 31^st, 2008

     I finally got to hike with the well-known Ed Wright! And this was even extra special because Ed would be celebrating his 83^rd birthday which is September 1^st. After some switching around with my work schedule, the plan was to hike up with Ed’s group, have lunch with them, then make a speedy hike back down the mountain and try to be at work sometime between 3:30 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. My clock-in time was actually supposed to be 3:15 p.m. but thanks to Linda Flack who said it would not be a problem if I were later and would cover for me. It was a great day on the mountain!

     The alarm was set for 4:30 a.m. Not wanting to be late and take a chance of missing the rest of the group, I was ready and in my car by 5:30 a.m. As I was driving the back way through Mitchell Bottoms the car headlights caught a set of shiny eyeballs. It was a little possum that had made it safely across the road. I met Liz Rowland, my long time hiking buddy at the Alum Cave Trailhead at 7:00 a.m. Alden, my other long time hiking buddy could not make the trip and will be missed. She has knee replacement surgery scheduled for September11th and we wish her a speedy recovery so she will soon be back on the trails.

     We parked in the lower lot but didn’t see any of Ed’s group. Stan the Runner was there and he said a group was gathering at the upper parking area so Liz and I loaded up and headed in that direction. Sure enough, there they were. We made introductions but I felt like I already knew everyone from reading Ed’s website so much. It was so nice to meet everyone in person. The group was as follows: of course, Ed Wright, his son Bob, Bob’s wife Lisa, and their two sons which is Ed Wrights grandsons, Austin and Charlie, Ed’s daughter Peggy Haythorn and her daughter which is also Ed Wrights granddaughter, Laura, Gerri Trent and her grandson, Tyler from Bean Station, Tillroe Smith and Tom Grubbs, both from Alabama, Liz Rowland from Pigeon Forge and yours truly, Connie Houk from Sevierville, The group was uneasy about Cindy because she had not arrived yet which was not like her to be late or to miss a hike. The decision was made to start on without her and she could catch up. We were on the trail at 7:15 a.m.

     It was nice seeing the water level in Stynx Branch up from the recent rains. At 7:30 a.m. we were at the ½ mile marker, the tree that arches across the trail. At the first foot log I got a picture of the three boys at the creek. These boys are some serious salamander hunters. I think it was just beyond this point where they found the first little brown salamander (and sorry to say the only one on the trip up but hopefully they found more on the trip down). I took a picture of it in Tyler’s hand. I would like to mention something that I noticed about Austin. Gerri mentioned it to us later, so she had noticed it as well.  Austin was the first one to pick up the salamander and Tyler asked to hold it. He immediately without any hesitation unselfishly handed it to him (without being told by an adult). He waited until we took pictures before taking his turn to hold the little critter. These three young guys, Austin, Charlie, and Tyler really impressed me. They were so well behaved and mannerly and seemed to enjoy every minute. I commend everyone in their families. Another thing Ed, they have started hiking the mountain at such an early age your hiking record may be in danger.

     There were some pink turtleheads blooming along the creek. I got some pictures of Ed as he was coming across one of the foot logs and the boys while they were huddled up...looking for salamanders again but found a crawdad instead. It was 8:00 a.m. when we reached Arch Rock. We rested a few minutes and took the opportunity to get some pictures. Liz and I were honored to have our picture made with Ed. Of course, the boys were back in the creek and I bet that cold water felt good. The cool air in Arch Rock always fells pleasant but just doesn’t last long enough. After the Washout Liz and I pulled a short distance ahead of the rest of the group. As we were going around the other side of the Washout we could hear loud excited voices. Cindy and Glen Weatherly had arrived! We were looking forward to meeting them in person.

     We decided to go on to Inspiration Point and wait on the group there. In the meantime, I took a picture of this huge pile of fresh bear scat on the trail. A friend of ours, Marti Smith and some friends hiked the trail the day before and followed a bear for about ¼ of a mile just above the bluffs. He showed no signs of aggression but no signs of fear either. They watched as he climbed the wooden log steps. Every so often he would turn around to look at them. Another group of hikers started coming down the mountain and when they saw the bear they started shouting and doing the things you are suppose to do when you see a bear. But this made the bear turn around and start back toward Marti’s group. Finally the bear felt trapped enough to get off the trail to let all of the hikers go by. Later, Stan the runner was telling us a bear story, pretty much the same thing. Liz and I didn’t see hide nor hair of this bear. If the others did it had to be on the way back down. Marti emailed a picture of the bear to me and this is what he looked like.

     Liz and I got to Inspiration Point and were telling a family from Lenoir City about Ed Wright being on the mountain. They seemed to be real interested in his hikes. He is such an inspiration to others. By this time, the others in the group were arriving. Cindy sat down to rest for maybe... one second. This is the most energetic, full of life, bubbly lady I have ever been around. When I spoke to her she bounced up and said, “Oh my God!” It was like we already knew one another. She is some lady. Some of us snacked while others just rested and took more pictures. Austin, Charlie, and Tyler climbed all over the rocks, no resting for them.

     At the top of the steps, just below the bluffs, I stopped to take pictures of the group coming up the steps. I watched as my camera case went tumbling down the mountain side, finally stopping about 10 to 15 feet below in some dog hobble bushes. I carefully made my way down the steep embankment where Glen Weatherly came to the rescue to help. We retrieved the case without incident. Thank you Glen! I got a picture of Tillrow, Ed, and Peggy resting before the steep, short climb to the bluffs. Here is Ed at the handrail with Glen in tow. It was 9:15 a.m. and we were making good time. I lost my ink pen (it was probably tangled up in the dog hobble bushes) but Laura was kind enough to give me one. She had plenty from being in school. We rested for awhile and I took a few notes before heading on up the mountain.

     We reached Gracie’s Pulpit, the halfway mark at 9:35 a.m. Some snacked again while others just rested. Lisa passed out Oreo cookies while Ed ate some Hersey kisses. While standing there, I took a picture of Paul’s Face from the pulpit. Tyler, one of the three hunters in the group, found a small round compass that Ed realized had came off the top of his hiking stick. Ed...Be sure to take Glen’s advice and point it in the right direction when you glue it back on. Austin, Charlie, and Tyler did a lot of trail maintenance on the way. They did their fair job of clearing the tail of rocks; fewer to trip over on the trip back down. Austin even worked during the breaks, carving arrowheads out of rocks. It was on through the saddle and then the lower wooden steps. I had not eaten a snack yet and all of a sudden I felt I needed something salty. It was hot and humid and I felt like a gallon of sweat had already rolled off of me! Always remember to eat something before you feel the need and always drink before you are thirsty. Liz and I sat down on the bank and told the others to go on and we would catch up. Cheese and crackers hit the spot and we soon trucked on.

     There were lots of hikers on the trail but I am not good with remembering names and places like Ed so I left that up to him. I think Ed has a photographic memory that clicks away because I did not see him take one single note! Remember he is having his 83^rd birthday tomorrow....truly amazing! It was neat listening to him talk to the other hikers and watching the expressions on their faces as they listened. There was one lady with three young boys that I remember distinctly. Two of the boys were barefooted. Their feet had to be extra tough to take that kind of a beating. I hope they watch out for the bear poop!

     After each rest stop the group would change from the previous hiking order, not intentionally but it gave me and Liz a chance to visit with everyone in the group. We enjoyed the stories that Tillroe told on Ed. Or should that be about Ed?! And then there was Tom Grubbs. Cindy and he were having a conversation about filling out employment applications. The question about pay he always answers with a yes. Cindy and I laughed about that for along time. I had never heard that one before. The blackberries and blueberries were scarce but with the boys help we scouted out a few. Liz’s hiking stick came in handy to pull the tops of the blackberry vines up close for picking. I took a picture of the red witch hobble berries and even one of the butterflies that Lisa had also captured on film. Her photo puts mine to shame so I left mine out. Lisa takes great pictures. I did get some good pictures of the boys; one of Charlie using a rock for a pillow with Austin in the background, another one of Charlie using a stump for a resting spot, all three of the boys posing on the bank and Bob, Charlie, Austin, (Cindy is hiding in there also), as they were walking up the lower steps. Also, it seems that I always take pictures of dead trees: there is just something appealing to me about a dead tree against a huge sky. 

      Large patches of Grass of Parnassus were blooming at Trout Branch. Liz and I each drank a cup of water while oohing and ahhing at them. They are such a pretty, delicate flower. A few of us arrived at Betty Jane’s’ Stairway to Heaven so we rested while waiting on the others. This is where Cindy always says the prayer and it has become a tradition. Now, I had heard a story about Cindy’s prayers sometimes being very long. Actually, Ed said that it once was so long that there would be no need of attending church on the next Sunday. Since this was Sunday and we had stayed out of church to hike I thought maybe it should be long. She knew I was on a time schedule and I personally think she kept it short for this reason. Great job Cindy! It was at this time when I noticed a bandage on Ed’s forehead. When questioned he said it was nothing... just a scratch. Taking pictures can be dangerous sometimes! I took this picture of a small mushroom while we were waiting. There were several white asters blooming along the bank and at Grassy Slide lots of Gentian and Grass of Parnassus were in bloom. Liz had never seen the Parnassus in bloom before today. Marti had told me to be sure and look for the rare wild flower, Mountain Krigia at the slide. We saw a couple of the bright yellow blooms and a large bunch of closed gentians.

     We ran into Stan the runner at Cliff Tops and that was when he told us about the bear encounter. When asked what he finally did to get the bear off of the trail he said with a twinkle in his eye that he wrestled with him until he finally gave up and left!

     When we came to the Old Horse Gate, Liz and I hiked on in need of the ladies room. We arrived at the lodge at 12:35 p.m. made a quick restroom break and then headed on to the kitchen for a quick visit with my cousin Doug. I wanted to get a picture of him for my family. To our pleasant surprise he offered us chocolate pie and hot chocolate. Of course, we accepted and it was delicious. We then made our way quickly to the lobby to eat our lunch with the rest of the Wright group. Just from reading Ed’s write-ups I knew he would not linger for long on the top. We signed the journal: my 20^th and Liz’s 16 hike to the lodge. Ed, you didn’t know this but I waited until you signed the book before I took this picture just so your name would be next to ours. Sneaky, wasn’t it? Cindy was running around like a mad woman trying to get everyone to sign Ed’s surprise birthday card. When Ed stood up, Peggy knew it was time so she sent Bob to the kitchen to get Cindy where she was still running around with card and pen in hand. We all gathered at the water pump where Cindy presented him with the card. He was so happy about having to carry the extra weight back down the mountain. He looked for a birthday cake but couldn’t find one. Dang! If only I had saved that piece of chocolate pie but at the time my stomach over rode my mind. Sorry, Ed. But really, I think it did make him really happy to have that many friends and family to share this part of his birthday celebration. I know it made me happy to share in the fun. I suddenly remembered that I hadn’t taken the obligatory picture of the date on the kitchen, so Liz and I hurriedly went to take care of that.

     Then we said our goody-byes to everyone and hated to leave the group but Liz and I planned on a fast trip down because of work. I put my camera up since I didn’t plan to take any more pictures. Liz had hers in her pocket... just in case we saw the bear. We left the lodge at 1:05 p.m. It was an uneventful but pleasant trip back down. I did notice something that I had not noticed before and wondered if anyone else in the group saw this on the way back down. Just a short distance maybe about a mile from the lodge, on the right side of the trail bank, there was a dead tree trunk about 15 feet tall that had been sawed off. Piles of little rocks lay on top, reminding me of a game at the fair where you throw a dime and try to get it to land on a slick glass plate. I’m assuming hikers threw the rocks and luckily some landed there. I thought that was quite interesting.

       We made good time and were at Gracie’s Pulpit at 2:15 p.m. where we had to take a quick bathroom break. And believe me, anytime on Alum Cave Trail it has to be quick or you will get caught with your britches down! We didn’t see or hear the Peregrine Falcons. Just below Arch Rock we started seeing a lot of what we call strollers, just out for a short stroll in the woods. We were at the parking lot at 3:15 p.m. I felt so fortunate for the opportunity to share a part of Ed Wright’s 83^rd birthday and spend the day with his family and friends. It was such a great day and Liz and I hope to join them on more hikes in the future. Thank you so much Ed! It was...another great day for a hike!