Hike to Mount LeConte September 1^st, 2007 Connie Houk

 

I finally got a Saturday off with a chance to hike so I took advantage of it and went to LeConte. (Note to Ed: I wished I could have hiked with your group on Sunday but it just didn’t work out that way. Hopefully, the next time.) Alden and Liz couldn’t make the trip so I went solo. I wanted to get an early start to beat the heat, so I started my day at 5:30 a.m. I stopped at Sugarlands Visitor Center for a quick visit to the bathroom and as I was walking toward the front entrance I met a ranger. I cheerfully spoke as he looked straight at me but did not say a word. He did not smile, nod, or acknowledge my presence in any way. I thought, ok, everyone is not as happy as me on the morning. I am going hiking but some have to work! Maybe he just needed more caffeine.

 

I pulled into the Alum Cave parking lot at 7:25 a.m., loaded my pack, took a picture of the trailhead and was on the trail by 7:30 a.m. There was just a little fog in the air. It was cool with a slight breeze blowing and felt really good. I had to check out the water in Styx Branch to see if the previous week’s rain had raised the water flow much. There was more water than in June when we did our overnighter. We have had a very dry year, making the Little Pigeon River going through Gatlinburg the lowest I ever remember seeing it. When I look at the water on the mountain it always amazes me how clear it is. I even heard two ladies discussing this on the hike back down.

 

I reached the ½ mile marker, the tree that arches across the trail at 7:45 a.m. I stopped to take a picture of the tree that was struck by lightening. It felt great to be in the mountains! I passed a couple that had stopped along side the trail just before the 3^rd foot log. I spoke but didn’t linger. I reached Arch Rock at 8:05 a.m. where I took a break to eat my apple. I happened to glance at my thermometer and it read 64 degrees. Someone had placed a large log across where the old bench used to sit. It made a nice resting place. The couple that I had passed earlier caught up with me as I was breaking. Their names were Don and Kathy Coleman, extremely nice, from Kingsport and were camping at Elkmont. They had hiked this trail before but never went to the top but planned on it today. I asked them if they had heard of Ed Wright and of course they had. Don had printed some information off of Ed’s website. I said, “Let me take your picture and I will post it with my story on his site.” (Note: Ed, I tried to do like you but I failed greatly. I kept up with my time and number of hikers on the way up but lost count on the way down. I don’t know how you do it!) After about a fifteen minute break, I started climbing again.

 

I had been reading online trail journals and seeing lots of pictures of copperheads and rattlesnakes. So of course when I would come to a sunny section the first thought that would go through my mind was how it would make a nice spot for a snake to sunbath. I saw lots of sticks on the trail that were shaped just like snakes. I thought some of them actually moved!

 

I passed Don and Kathy just beyond the washout. His wicking clothes were not wicking enough so he was shedding layers. I came to Inspiration Point where a couple was resting at 8:30 a.m. They asked several questions about the trail since this was their first time. I told them it was well worth the trip up to the top but didn’t see them anymore after that and wondered if they made it or not.

 

I arrived at the bluffs at 8:50 a.m. where I took another short break to catch up on my notes. I had it all to myself. Up to this point I had only seen four hikers. I took a picture of a shattered rock that had fallen from the roof of the bluffs. I wouldn’t want to be close enough to witness that. From here on up I only took short breather breaks.

 

Just above the bluffs I could hear the cry of a falcon. When I got to a point where I could see I stopped and waited a few minutes but never did see them. It was on to Gracie’s Pulpit at 9:10 a.m. and then the Saddle. Thank God for the Saddle! It rests your legs on the way up and your toes on the way down.

 

I met Ronnie Valentine at 9: 45 a.m. somewhere between the lower and upper steps. I told him we had missed seeing him on our June trip and he confirmed what Tillroe Smith had told us about his wife being sick. (Please remember her in your prayers for she is a very sick lady.) He has put in 59 hikes so far this year to LeConte. I chatted with him for awhile before continuing on my way. I spotted some jewelweed and Michael Saxifrage blooming. I started meeting the overnighters coming down the mountain and even though I spoke to each one I didn’t take the time to get their names and pictures. I was too busy letting my breathing catch up with my body. (I told you Ed, I failed badly at what you do great!)

 

When I arrived at Trout Branch I pulled out my cup (which I had brought just for this purpose) for a drink of water. I had it all to myself so I stayed long enough to drink two full cups. A little salamander was nestled in the wet moss and I thought how refreshing it must have felt to him lying there while being sprayed with the cool mist from Trout Branch. I wet my face with the cold water before heading on up the trail. It felt good! Before long I could see Paul’s Face and knew it wouldn’t be far to the top.

 

I was so excited about seeing the Grass of Parnassus and Gentian blooming on Grassy Slide that I started snapping all kinds of pictures. I had not seen either of these in bloom in ages…guess I just hadn’t been at the right place at the right time of the year. I couldn’t help but think of Gracie McNicol. She writes in her book “Gracie and The Mountain” that the Grass of Parnassus was her favorite flower and I can see why. It is a white delicate looking flower with great detail. And the deep blue metallic color of the Gentian reminds me of an indigo bunting bird. The blues and whites mixed together were especially pretty.

 

I arrived at the lodge at 10:50 a.m. I had met or passed 59 hikers on the way up. I stopped at the hiker’s bathroom before going on to the office to sign the register. It was my 19^th hike to LeConte. It was bumblebee paradise around the lodge. Large patches of yellow coneflowers, filmy angelica, touch-me-nots (jewelweed) and bee balm surrounded the area. The sounds of buzzing busy bees filled the air as they fed off of the assortment. I settled into one of the rockers on the front porch where I had my lunch. I had worked up an appetite and ate not only my peanut butter sandwich but also a can of baked beans. A nice young Chinese male was also having his lunch and asked several questions about the area. I showed him the exact location of where we were on his backcountry map. I think he had a little trouble understanding my southern accent. The views were still socked in and I hated that for the ones that were making their first trip up. The thermometer on the wall read 64 degrees. I watched as Henry Neel and the lodge workers were busy getting everything cleaned up for the next batch of guest. I could hear Don and Kathy so I leaned over the porch railing to see that they had made it. She said there were times when she had her doubts but with a few pep talks from her husband coach they had reached their goal. Congrads! And I am thinking it will be the first of many trips to come in the future.

 

After a few more pictures I started walking up the steps away from the lodge at 11:25 a.m. I decided not to go to Cliff Tops since it was still socked in. Something on my pack was making a clicking sound so at the end of the level section I stopped to make an adjustment. The nice young Chinese man passed me there and I didn’t see him anymore. Once again I admired the flowers walking through Grassy Slide. At this point and time I had counted about 12 hikers and that’s when I gave up on the count. There were just too many! I did see a lot of interesting people on my hike back down. Just at the top of the upper steps a group had just finished the top step and with them was a very pretty girl with big dark brown eyes with an “I CAN’T BELIEVE YOU ARE MAKING ME DO THIS” look on her face. She did not look like a happy camper, I mean hiker.

 

I stopped at Lu’s Pulpit to take a picture since I had failed to get one on the trip up. About this time I met a lady with a Wisconsin cap on that had mouse ears sticking out of the top of it. Then a young couple with the man carrying two back packs. One on his back while the other one, a pretty bright neon pink one was in his hand and the female companion behind him had the same expression as the little girl with the big brown eyes.

 

I stopped to let a couple pass by me and as I spoke they stopped and asked how far it was to the top. I looked at my watch and told them I had been hiking for about 50 minutes so they had at least one good hour of hiking ahead of them. I could not believe it when they asked if they could get water when they arrived at the top because they were thirsty.  They had no pack and no water! They had already hiked that far without water. I would have gladly given them some but all I had was in my camelback. I told them about Trout Branch and how it was advised not to drink the water but I always did and if they wanted to chance it they could. The look on her face told me she probably wouldn’t but I think he probably had him a long, long drink of mountain water. They looked to be in good physical condition so I’m sure they made it ok, but I could not imagine hiking one mile without water let alone the strenuous climb to LeConte!

 

I reached Gracie’s Pulpit at 12:15 p.m. and then the bluffs to find it void of hikers again. I didn’t hear or see any signs of the falcons. But I did hear the strangest sound down in the woods across from the bluffs. I would stop, listen and look, walk a few more feet and peer down in the woods again but I never could see any movement. It was too loud for a squirrel or bird and wondered if it could be a baby cub nursing. It will remain a mystery of the forest.

 

Before the washout I caught a movement out of the corner of my eye on the side of the trail. I saw a garner snake just before it made its way down the bank out of sight. It was moving very fast. There were still lots of hikers on the trail. The closer I got to the parking lot the more there was. With just about a mile left I rounded a curve in the trail and the smell of “wacky weed” was very strong. Someone was getting high on something besides nature!

 

I had lots of things to do around the house so I made a speedy trip down and was back at the car at 1:45 p.m. The only bad thing about Alum Cave Trail is the fact that there are so many hikers it is almost impossible to find a private spot for a bathroom break. I had to make a quick trip to Sugarlands to visit the facilities again. I stopped in at the backcountry office to visit with Pam for a few minutes before heading home. I enjoyed my solo hike alone with God and the many, many hikers on the mountain. I felt revived and ready to start a new week. It was another great day for a hike!